Then I moved to another rental up North and inherited two rose bushes. The front bush was covered in spent flowers and many of the leaves were yellowing or had black spots. I'd learned enough in Los Angeles to know that dead heading could help. And it did. The bush continued to bloom well into the fall. While pruning, I found that the rose seemed to be two bushes growing closely together. Why anyone would have planted them this way was beyond me, but I thought the tiny buds growing at the side were a cute bonus. This shows you how little I knew about roses.
When I started work on the front yard in February, I thought adding more roses could help with the continuity. But I didn't do much research and just picked two from the nursery that looked pretty and came recommended (Double Delight and John F. Kennedy). I soaked the roots, made holes in the ground, fertilized, and planted. And only after this did I really start my rose education.
The neighbor across the street (who seems to know all things plant related) called the tiny tea rose shooting off my original bush "pedestrian." Then he explained the whole grafting phenomenon which this beginning gardener should have already known. As per his instructions, I pruned the "Perfect Moment" heavily and brought out the big shovel to try to rid myself of the offending shoots from the rootstock. Crisis averted. Or so I thought.
I started to read more about roses- the types, grafting and pruning techniques, care instructions, and so on. But the more I read, the more behind I realized I was.
An example: My Perfect Moment started to get black spot again. Every book I read told me that it was irreversible. My only hope was to pick off all infected leaves and spray with fungicide. So I went to the crunchy, organic nursery and bought the spray then picked off so many leaves, the bush looked like a bunch of thorny twigs and sprayed it down. After two weeks, it is still an eyesore. And the neighbor has since advised me to scrap the spray and just plant garlic around the base. Oy. I really had tried to do my research and failed yet again.
Another example: This one deals with my new roses. In Second Nature, Michael Pollan describes the downside to modern hybrid roses. In fact, he says very little that is positive about them. Instead, he lauds Old English Roses that seem to be hardier and produce flowers only once a season. My Double Delight and J.F.K are certainly hybrids and certainly not up to snuff according to Mr. Pollan. So here I seem to have failed again.
The good to come out of all my follies: I'll know better next time.
Checking on your gardening progress and read your post on roses. Lots of things to consider when opting for the "Rose Parade" of frustration. Here are some things that may help.
ReplyDeleteShrub roses are much more durable and less susceptible to problems, especially disases. Not as showy as hybrid tea roses but still rosey and nice.
Some heirloom roses are much more fragrant than the newer varieties. Heirloom roses are available from a lot of reputable sources and I'm sure many are in your area.
Good roses start with good soil. It's worth the work to improve your soil by adding compost, and making sure that you work it into the soil deeply - 6-8 inches minimum. Roses also like mulching and are pretty heavy feeders.
Even the most resistant and strong roses are susceptible to insect and disease problems. Black spot, rust and powdery mildew are common. There are some good natural (not organic) fungicides. Most are copper based including copper sulfate and copper octanoate. Insecticides are also available that are naturally derived. Insect controls such as Spinosad and pyrethrum kill insects but have to be applied at regular intervals to be effective.
In my biased opinion there is nothing wrong with occasional use of synthetic products for roses. A multi purpose product incorporating a systemic insecticide (imidacloprid) and fungicide (tebuconizole) is available from Bayer Advanced or from Bonide Products. Thess are applied asa drench - mixed in a watering can and poured on the roots of the plant, avoiding drift or unwanted cross contamination. The material is then taken into the plant and makes it bug and disease proof for about 6 weeks.
Use a good organic rose food. Roses are heavy feeders. You can also use fish emulsion if you can tolerate the odor. Fish emulsion provides micro nutrients but can also have heavy metals such as mercury present, but not in dangerous amounts.
You're spot on with your comments about pruning. Dead heading and occasional pruning back of shoots to keep the plant compact also encourage additional bud set and therefore more flowers.
Growing roses is more of a lifestyle choice than an activity. The more you know the more you'll either love roses or decide to grow something else.
A couple of watchouts for you specifically. There is one systemic insect control that's highly toxic to pets. Avoid anything containing "disyston" or "Disufoton". Also don't use any slug and snail control products containing "Methaldehyde" These are both highly toxic and attractive to dogs, especially curious puppies.
Good luck. Look forward to seeing some photos of your successes. Post any challenges too. I can probably help you!
Don
Thank you so much for your thorough comments Don. Who needs books when you're around? I'm going to post some photos of my roses as of today and I'm hell bent on figuring these suckers out.
ReplyDeleteI also really appreciate the dog-friendly advice. So far Banjo is avoiding my toxic plants (with the exception of the pre-established Bird of Paradise) but we're never sure when he'll alter his eating habits.